PARIS - This year’s winter coats have a new look. Lines are voluminous and free flowing, shapes are trapeze like -- narrow on top and flaring out below the waist -- and necklines are climbing. And the new retro balloon cut, also called “egg cut” is cutting a wide swath in the coat department.
Trapeze cut
Retro Balloon cut
A very dear client, Jenny, asked a great question the other day. “How can a woman not look like a whale in a winter coat, and be comfortable too, especially when wearing it over anything thicker than a demure twin set?” I’m sure many of you are asking yourselves the same question! Let’s face it, the more layers we wear, the bigger we look.
Unfortunately, the phenomenon among many European designers -- including Armani -- is to cut narrow armholes that are constricting and that impede easy movement; e nd result: we feel as if our upper arms are encased like sausages and our upper backs squished. Very uncomfortable! What are they thinking?
Cape, front
Cape, rear
So, what to do? You could buy a comfortable coat a size or two bigger but this inevitably will make you look huge. Not a good idea! My solution: opt for a coat with raglan sleeves. (See below.) Better yet, go for a belted cape. I especially like this short three-quarter length cape as it shapes the silhouette and balances the volume. It is easy to wear and will lengthen your legs considerably when you wear it with straight leg jeans, leggings or narrow pants.
A longer cape will cover you better during the cold months and still fit easily over bulky tops.
The Raglan Sleeve Coat
The images below are good examples of basic coats with raglan sleeves. This cut is ideal to wear over a suit jacket as it is wider in the underarm area and flares out ever so slightly. And provides a looser, more comfortable fit.
The Redingote and Princess Coat
These coats are a throwback to the end of the Victorian era. The Redingote coat is distinguished by its tailored fit: it hugs the chest and waist and flares out to the hem. The Princess Seam style coat is not quite as tight a fit as the Redingote but only indents slightly around the waist and then flares out. Princess seams typically run vertically from the shoulder or from under the arm, over the bust line, down to the lower hem. Although these coats are tailored, they are elegant and elongate the figure. I strongly advise that you only wear these coats if you are slender and/or are going to wear something sleek and thin underneath
The Sweater Coat
Sweater Coats are another great alternative. They fit easily over bulky tops or suit jackets and are warm and usually lightweight.
By the way, dresses are still in this season so perhaps you should contemplate putting your suits away for now. After all, dresses certainly make life easier. You only have to grab one in the morning instead of choosing a bottom, shirt and jacket. Think about it.
With so many choices, it should be easy for you to look elegant and be warm and comfortable this winter.
My formula for great winter dressing: dress + coat = head turner. So, dress to impress with a FANTASTIC coat.
Bloomingdale's
$380
BCBG
$298 after rebate 
ZARA
$190 
BCBG
$548 
