Every new season we are faced with the same questions: What to do with last year’s wardrobe investments? Should we throw away our slim pants? Is the new trend about scarves or hats? Like it or not, trends are a fact of life and change eternally, just like the seasons that dictate designers’ calendars. But they are cyclical too, hence our experience of Remembrance of Things Past when we view this season’s highlights.
Happily I am here--with my trusty notebook (aka my bible) bursting with notes--to help you find your own style that complements your personality beautifully.
Silhouettes.
I noticed six grand themes for this coming season: Eighties/Nineties, Ultra Mix, Gothic Chic, Future Girl, Comme Un Garçon, and Preppy Girl.
80s/90s
Ultra Mix
Gothic Chic
Eighties/Nineties: Back to high waists and varying hemlines from knee-length to ankle.
Ultra Mix: Exactly what it means. Everything goes. No codes here.
Gothic Chic: Black and blacker but not at all depressing. The black for this season is chic, luminous and luxurious.
Future Girl
Comme Un Garçon
Preppy Girl
Future Girl: Think Blade Runner. Modernity. Protection. Uniformity. This collection sacrifices esthetics for experimental.
Comme Un Garçon: Men’s suits for women.
Preppy Girl: Cheerleader miniskirts and schoolgirl uniforms are, unfortunately, in my opinion, among this season’s favorites. I’m just crossing this one out.
Fundamentals.
Color: Best described by a ‘season of changes.’ Fall 2008 offers us an elegant selection of rich and vibrant hues. American designers have eschewed the traditional quiet fall colors and shifted toward cooler shades of blue and purple and warmer reds and oranges, all with bright and exciting undertones.
In Europe, after a very colorful spring and summer, the 2008/2009 fall and winter collections are subdued and more serious. Black, as always, and gray come in second best again. Europeans will maximize these two colors by creating a dramatic monochromatic look, or use them as a canvas, mixed with blues, purples and oranges.
Fabrics: Supple and stretchy leather. Lace (Prada). Cashmere. Fur (real or faux). Satin is the fabric of choice to feminize the masculine styles. And, designers are manufacturing exciting new fabrics that have never been used before.
Prints: Winter florals rule at Dries Van Noten, Oscar de la Renta and Roberto Cavalli. Graphics. Squares. Art deco motifs.
Wardrobe.
The Coat: The preferred garment in my wardrobe. At last, it’s now a stand-alone style statement. Belted. Printed. Sleeveless. Princess seams. The coat is omnipresent and oversized.
Here is an example of Comme Un Garçon style with a sleeveless fur coat.
Pants: Wide in the USA and narrow in Europe. Pick the ones that fit you best.
The Dress: Simple a la Jil Sanders.
The Skirt: Variable hemlines. A good thing. There is a hemline for every pair of legs, every age, and every price range- from minis at Balmain to ankle-length at Chanel. The high-waist skirt is worn with high boots or opaque hosiery. And pleats are back!
Evening: Cocktail lengths outnumber full-length gowns. The one-shoulder neckline is numero uno followed by asymmetric necklines.
Accessories.
Leg wear is key. Opaque and printed hosiery give an edge to otherwise classic outfits and create a fun visual effect. The necklace is the fundamental ornament. It is really big in resin or Lucite. The shoe of the season is a stiletto pump in color as well as black patent, often platformed. Belts from narrow to mid-size continue to emphasize the waist. The shoulder bag returns slung diagonally like a messenger bag. Scarves are really large. Glasses are thick; think nerd. Mini to maxi leather gloves. Hats.
Designer Must Haves.
Narrow pants in stretchy leather (Goth Chic) as well as wide leg pants in a new shorter length. Fur vest. (Saw a great sleeveless one in faux fur at Zara for $79.00). Cape. Blazer. Tux jacket. Oversized coat. Bustier or asymmetric neckline dress. Large purse.
“Everything these days has to occur in a bigger way in order to get people’s attention – the volume on everything has to be turned up.” Marc Jacobs.
So amp up your style and have fun with it!
Michele
