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Bea Beasley

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A World Of Spice Part II

In the first half of this two-part article I examined the use of chiles and spices in global cuisines. In this segment, I’ll share recipes for a few of my favorite spice blends.

Dukkah is an Egyptian mixture of crushed nuts and spices. Found in many Middle Eastern countries, Dukkah recipes vary slightly from place to place, and from family to family. Although you can make it in a food processor, care must be taken not to over-process it. The mixture should be coarsely ground and dry, not over- processed to an oily paste.

Dukkah is eaten dry rather than used in cooking, and is usually eaten with flat bread, pita bread or a crusty bread with a dish of fine olive oil. Dip the bread in oil, then in the dry spice mixture.

Dukkah

  • 1-1/2 cup hazelnuts
  • 3/4 cup white sesame seeds
  • 3 tablespoons coriander seeds
  • 1/4 cup cumin seeds
  • 2 tablespoons fennel seeds
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon gomasio (sesame seed salt) or sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon sweet paprika

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spread nuts on a parchment-lined sheet pan and roast for about 10 to 15 minutes, watching carefully so they do not scorch.

To remove the skins, place the hot nuts in the center of a rough terry cloth towel. Pull the towel up around the nuts and twist tightly, making a hobo pack. Let stand to steam for about five minutes. Vigorously rub the warm nuts in the towel to remove most of the skins.

Let the toasted nuts cool and place in a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Chop the nuts until they resemble coarse cornmeal. Place the ground hazelnuts in a bowl and set aside.

Toast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until pale golden brown in color. Set aside. Toast the coriander, cumin, and fennel seeds in a dry skillet until the seeds’ aromas are released, then add them to the sesame seeds. Cool and grind the seeds to a medium fine powder in a spice mill. Add the seed powder to the ground hazelnuts, and season with pepper, salt and paprika adjusting seasonings to taste.

Transfer to a sealed glass jar for storing. Keep dukkah for several weeks in the refrigerator or freeze up to 3 months, although it will lose some of it’s pungency.

Yield: about 2 cups.

Za’atar Spice Blend

This spice blend is popular in the Mideast and North Africa. The taste of a za'atar mixture can be herbal, or nutty, or toasty. Use as a rub for roast chicken, sprinkled over a salty cheese such as Feta or Kasseri and drizzled with olive oil. Combine za'atar with olive oil and use as a paste for grilled lamb. Sprinkle over yogurt and serve as a dip with hot pita bread.

  • 1 cup white sesame seeds, toasted
  • 4 teaspoons dried marjoram
  • 1/2 cup dried thyme leaves
  • 1/4 cup sumac spice
  • 4 tablespoons dried parsley
  • 2 teaspoons sea salt, to taste

Working in batches and using a spice mill, grind all ingredients to a coarse powder. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 months.

Yield: about 2 cups

Muhammara

Spread this traditional Mediterranean dip on warm pita and other flatbreads. Use it as a spicy dip with vegetable, poultry, fish and pork kabobs. I spread it on toast for breakfast!

  • 2-1/2 lbs. red bell peppers
  • 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped and sauteed in olive oil until soft
  • 3 large cloves garlic, minced and added to sauteed onions
  • Extra-virgin olive oil as needed for sautéeing
  • 1 cup crushed walnuts
  • 3/4 cup breadcrumbs blended with cold water to a puree
  • 2 tablespoons pomegranate syrup or molasses
  • 2 tablespoons hot paprika
  • 1 to 2 teaspoons harissa (recipe follows)
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seed, toasted and ground to a fine powder
  • Sea salt to taste
  • 1 tablespoon pine nuts or pistachios, toasted in a dry skillet

Roast red bell peppers and chiles either over coals or a gas burner or under an electric broiler, turning frequently until blackened and blistered all over, about 12 minutes. Place in a covered bowl to steam 10 minutes (this loosens the skin). Rub off skins; slit peppers open and remove stems, membranes, and seeds. Spread bell peppers, smooth side up, on a paper towel and let drain 10 minutes.

Puree the peppers in a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Add the walnuts, the breadcrumb puree, paprika, Harissa or cayenne, cumin and salt to taste. If the mixture is too thick, thin with a little olive oil. When ready to serve, transfer the dip to a serving dish. Sprinkle with pine nuts or pistachios.

Keeps at least a week refrigerated and better made a few days in advance.

Yield: about 3 – 3-1/2 cups.

Harissa

This very hot condiment from Morocco can be dabbed on anything savory!

  • 1 cup small dried hot red chiles
  • Boiling water to cover chiles
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground to a fine powder
  • 1 tablespoon paprika
  • 3/4 teaspoon sea salt
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil

Remove the stem from the chiles. Slit the chiles, but do not remove the seeds. Pour boiling water over the chiles to soften and let sit about 20 minutes. Remove chiles from the water, and transfer to a blender. Add the remaining ingredients to the blender and blend to a paste. Thin with 1 to 2 more tablespoons of the olive oil if a thinner paste is desired. Store covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Yield: about 1 cup

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